The Malacari family plans to open an Italian restaurant and winery this weekend at the location of their original deli and store at 80 Wilkes-Barre Twp. Blvd in Wilkes-Barre, said Frank Malacari, who operates Malacari’s Produce and Deli and Malacari ice cream businesses with his family.
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In French, “flambeaux” means “flaming torch”. During the New Orleans Mardi Gras carnival, dancing torchbearers light up the parade.
New Orleans-born winemaker Art Murray said he chose to name his brand Flambeaux Wines to evoke the shared celebration of Mardi Gras.
“There’s a definite connection people feel during Mardi Gras, the city-wide party that brings people from all walks of life together,” he said. “We want our customers to have the same feeling when they taste with us.”
Murray is behind our Wine of the Week winner – the Flambeaux Wine, 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley, Flambeaux Vineyard, 14.4%, $70. Aromas of black raspberry linger on the palate with black cherry and a hint of tart cherry. Lightly toasted, this cabin ends with a kiss of vanilla. It is balanced, supple and impressive.
“We make a Cabernet Sauvignon that’s pretty unique among California cabs,” Murray said. “Our Dry Creek Valley cab has lots of bright red fruit and minerality, which is very French in style. It’s something the typical California cab is not, in my opinion. Again, we don’t we don’t push that profile. We happen to have a special property that expresses itself that way. … Our winemaker Ryan Prichard excels at working with this somewhat difficult variety, never pushing the grapes to be what they are not, but always giving them the tools to be the best they can be.
The Flambeaux Vineyard sits 400 feet from the bottom of the valley, above the fog line, allowing it to cool down nicely at night.
“It’s the extremes that Cabernet Sauvignon really likes,” Murray said. “On top of that, we have a special floor. It is a soil rich in iron that is only found on hillsides and which makes it a very special Cabernet. But making a very good wine requires sacrifice. We typically give up a lot of fruit, trading yield for quality, a quality that really shines in our 2018 Dry Creek Valley Cabernet.”
Murray, 47, works remotely in his day job, as an environmental attorney for his family’s law firm in Louisiana. He’s been making wine in Sonoma County since 2014 in his “other job,” serving as president of Flambeaux and one of its four owners.
The winemaker said he had no idea he would be going into the wine business when he bought the property. His idea was to retire to a vineyard. It wasn’t planned to make wine, but after seeing its fruits transported by a respected local winery, the sparkle of an idea became a business in its own right.
“Sonoma County is truly my favorite wine region,” the winemaker said. “The size of the department and the range of terroirs it offers us as winegrowers is incredible. There are so many options. Although Napa is beautiful, it is smaller and more restricted in its range of varietals. I also love that Sonoma still has a lot of small family wineries. From a growth standpoint, Dry Creek Valley is a truly special place.
You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at [email protected] or 707-521-5310.
]]>Redwood City-based Impossible Foods suffered another round of layoffs on Thursday, shedding 6% of its workforce, San Francisco Business Times reports. This is the second time this year that the fake meat start-up has laid off employees: in January, 15 employees were also laid off, and despite those layoffs, the company then said it still plans to expand its workforce of 800 people.
The cut jobs were labeled as “redundant” or positions that “were no longer aligned with our core business practices,” Impossible CEO Peter McGuinness said in an email to employees. The layoffs came as other similar companies reported declining sales, the Business hours points out. Beyond Meat, for example, saw a 75% drop in sales this year.
Wine hijacker freed from 27 years in prison
Mark C. Anderson, owner of Sausalito Cellars, will be released from prison on health grounds after being sentenced to 27 years in 2012 for selling wines to be stored for customers and then setting fire to his warehouse during of a camouflage operation, the Mercury News reports. Anderson embezzled $1 million worth of wine between 2001 and 2004, before setting the warehouse on fire in 2005 and destroying around $200 million worth of wine. Anderson entered a plea deal for arson, fraud and tax evasion, but later tried to withdraw his plea. He was sentenced to 27 years in prison and ordered to pay $70.3 million in restitution. Anderson will be moved to a nursing home in Sacramento near the UC Davis Medical Center, according to a court order.
Saratoga winery lives on despite some community objections
The Mercury News follows the saga at House Family Vineyards, which has received complaints about wine tastings held at its Saratoga vineyard. The winery was found to be holding tastings without the proper permits and was granted a “temporary compliance permit” to allow tastings by appointment only while the town works with the family winery to acquire the correct ones. Some neighbors cited issues such as “noise levels, traffic issues, security issues” and would prefer the winery not host tastings at all, apparently, and appealed the temporary permit. The Saratoga City Council, however, rejected that appeal on Wednesday and allow House Family Vineyards to continuereports the newspaper.
Crystal wines are (maybe) your next purchase
If you’re a big believer in the power of crystals to…do everything crystals do, two wineries are incorporating rocks into their winemaking process. Ardure Wines adds a crystal to clay amphoras during the fermentation process, and Tank Garage Winery also began experimenting with the technique after talking with Ardure winemaker Jason Ruppert, the San Francisco Chronicle reports. Tank’s first crystal-fermented wine — a cabernet sauvignon that retails for $75 — is slated for release Oct. 14. (It should be noted that the crystal is removed before bottling, so the wine is purchased without the crystal, but with the vibes intact.)
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Grant recipients to promote agricultural tourism in Center County.
As tourism is the #1 driver of business in Center County, the area has a long and rich tradition in agricultural ventures, from apple orchards and tree farms, to family-run producing businesses and even breweries. crafts, with the exception of athletics and Penn State sports. fields.
Scenic mountains descend to some of Pennsylvania’s most fertile soil which produces an amazing plethora of colorful flowers and crisp fresh vegetables. These agricultural gems of Happy Valley have received renewed support to grow their business, attract new visitors, and improve the guest experience and their facilities with a grant from the Happy Valley Adventure and Tourism office as well as the Chamber of Commerce and Tourism. Center County industry.
Since COVID-19 has wreaked havoc on small and medium-sized businesses, this grant can, in some cases, help businesses continue operations.
“It’s a great feeling to know that the projects funded today will improve the agricultural supply in the county and allow farms and agriculture-related businesses to grow their businesses,” said Greg Scott, President and CEO of CBICC.
Fritz Smith, President and CEO of Happy Valley Adventure, shared the announcement of the initiative.
“Inviting visitors – and local residents – to enjoy what we grow, make and create is the mission of Happy Valley Agventures”, said Smith. “The proposed projects will make it even more inviting to visit Happy Valley, enjoy and appreciate our agricultural heritage.
Twenty-eight regional agricultural businesses applied for grants and all received a portion of the awarded amount, which offered up to $10,000 for individual grants. An additional $200,000 will be matched by private investments within the county. Center County has a unique variety of agricultural businesses offering a variety of rare specialties.
Bear Meadows Farms, one of the recipients, is one of the state-licensed companies offering a rarity, raw milk, that is gaining popularity. Goot Essa is an Amish team establishment that offers high quality specialty cheeses.
Leslie Zuck, owner of Common Ground Farm in Spring Mills, said the vision for the diverse 80-acre farm is to share their family farming experience, including growing vegetables and flowers, landscaping with native plants , regenerative agriculture and climate-smart agriculture.
“The upgrades made possible through this grant will help us provide safe and comfortable farm tours and educational opportunities for schools and organizations,” Zuck said. “We are firm believers in learning by doing and are truly looking forward to providing hands-on farming activities for farm and garden enthusiasts, especially children and young people, the future stewards of the Earth.”
Rimmey Road Farm owner Keith Brainard said the grant funding would be “definitely allow” the farm to become a viable agritourism destination that can contribute to the county’s tourism economy. Rimmey Road Farm raises heritage breed Mulefoot pigs on the land adjacent to Rhoneymeade.
Center County Grange Fair will use its $9,000 grant for technology improvements in the cattle judging area.
“We at Center County Grange Park/Centre County Grange Fair are very grateful and thrilled to be chosen as a recipient of the Happy Valley Agventure grant program,” said Darlene Confer, General Manager of Grange Park/Grange Fair.“This grant will help provide technology enhancements, such as live streaming capabilities, for agricultural shows and events held at Grange Park.”
Agriculture and agritourism are an integral part of our establishment and the surrounding communities,Confer continued. “With these grants, we hope to further promote agribusiness in Center County.
The selection criteria have been a factor of ingenuity in the agricultural field and the preservation of companies established for a long time in the region with a solid clientele. The idea behind the Happy Valley Adventure Bureau grant is to further improve the customer experience, which can lead to the growth of product lines and increased new offerings for visitors to the area as well as for long-time customers.
State Sen. Jake Corman (R-Bellefonte) has worked hard to make this grant an opportunity for the Happy Valley Adventure Bureau and the Center County Chamber of Commerce and Industry to award these funds to these local agricultural enterprises.
Happy Valley Agventures is a joint agritourism initiative of the Happy Valley Adventure Bureau and the Center County Chamber of Commerce and Industry. For more information on agriculture-related things to see and do in Center County, visit www.happyvalleyagventures.com.
The recipients of the Happy Valley Agventures scholarship are:
• Bear Meadows Farm — $7,800 for additional paved parking, road widening and beautification
• Bee Tree Berry Farm — $8,600 for controlled outdoor storage of fresh fruits and vegetables
• Central PA Tasting Trail – $10,000 for two promotional billboards in Central and Mifflin counties
• Center County Farmland Trust — $5,000 to reprint three Farm Routes guides and one program postcard
• Center County Grange Fair — $9,000 for technology improvements in the cattle judging area to attract different agricultural fairs
• Common Ground Farm — $9,500 to improve infrastructure and resources to be ready for visitors
• Township of Ferguson — $8,000 for infrastructure needs of Route 45 getaway participants, tourist directional signs (TOD), banner displays
• Goot Essa — $9,800 for pavilions and an outdoor picnic area at the cheese factory
• Happy Valley Vineyard & Winery — $9,000 to expand outdoor seating area, including pergola, shade cloths and picnic benches
• Harner Farm — $4,100 for parking and patio
• JL Farm and Cidery — $9,800 for a paved driveway and outdoor pavilions
• JNJP Holdings – $5,000 for stone signage for better visibility in the driveway
• Meyer Dairy Farms — $9,800 for public washroom renovations/upgrades
• Nittany Meadow Farm – $9,000 for construction to meet Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture licensing requirements for dairy goat farms
• Nittany Meadow Farm — $2,000 to upgrade buses to travel with goats to promote agricultural and educational opportunities
• Pasto Agricultural Museum: $8,000 for museum entrance upgrades, including lighting and retail shop
• Pine Grove Hall — $9,500 for parking lot expansion
• Pole Cat Hollow Farm — $5,500 to convert a farm shed into an agricultural education area for visitors
• RE Farm Café in Windswept — $9,800 for the addition of a ground floor outdoor patio with awning, seating, stairs and fire pit
• Rhoneymeade: $8,800 for sound system, DJ equipment, lighting and other needs to support Rhoneymeade Fest
• Rimmey Road Farm — $8,500 for farm improvements for retail space and events
• Rooted Farmstead — $9,000 to improve the site, equip the outlet and establish a peony garden
• Schaeffer Farm: $6,000 for a year-round farm stand, refrigerators/freezers, parking improvements
• Scott’s Roasting — $8,000 for farm wrap by food truck
• Seven Mountains Wine Cellars — $8,500 for a permanent outdoor dining facility
• Sinking Creek Meats — $8,500 to build retail space
• University Wine Company — $5,000 for outdoor seating upgrades
• Wasson Farm: $8,500 for facility expansion to increase production and meet customer demand for ice cream
Mask mandates may be a thing of the past, dining rooms are at capacity and diners are back in full force. If you’re the service industry recipient, you’d be tempted to think the pandemic is over with restaurants basking in a Roaring Twenties-style resurgence fueled by the public’s unquenchable thirst for entertainment.
But while it’s true that the demand side of the equation hasn’t just recovered but grown even stronger since before the COVID-19 outbreak, things haven’t returned to normal for the industry. itself – not even close. Staffing shortages, which have pushed nearly every restaurant to breaking point, signal a longstanding systemic reckoning in which service-industry workers are pushing back against an outdated and, at worst, abusive culture.
Supply chain disruptions mean restaurants — especially immigrant-owned mom and pop stores — are struggling to find what they need to run their businesses. Price increases are disproportionately absorbed by restaurants, who know they have to charge $22 for cheeseburgers, but also know their customers won’t bear the cost. Add to that a stressed and exhausted audience pushing the boundaries of the now-obsolete adage “the customer is always right,” and you have a situation where many in the industry are wondering why the hell they are even in this business. .
The following places remind us why. Looking at the names that make up the Best of St. Louis Food and Drink for 2022, what strikes is not one particular dish, well-balanced cocktail, or stunning view, but the courage shown by the people behind each of these places. . That they have the strength to persevere in the face of such difficulty is beyond impressive – it is the most honest form of hospitality there is. —Cheryl Baer
*Due to the volatility of the restaurant industry, always call or check a restaurant’s website before going.
]]>Oxnard, Calif., Sept. 21, 2022 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) — Founded in 1903 by sugar magnate Henry Oxnard, the town that bears his name has become one of California’s best-kept coastal secrets. From a thriving industry of Fortune 500 companies (Amazon, Haas, Bayer, Volkswagen) and military bases to a strong collection of independent Mom & Pop shops and tourist attractions, the city has become a global destination for those seeking to enjoy the Southern California lifestyle at a slightly less hectic pace. And it was in this lively community that Herzog Wine Cellars and Tierra Sur decided to settle in 2005.
From its roots in Oxnard, Herzog Wine Cellars has become the largest winery in the region, producing several million bottles a year with international distribution. The Tierra Sur restaurant and its tasting room has been recognized as one of the best kosher restaurants in the world and attracts tourists and foodies from all over the world daily. The Herzog family has also worked hard to integrate the business into the community in accordance with the family philosophy of charity and strong roots.
The company has provided wine, donations and personnel to countless local charities and charity events. They created the Ventura County Wine Route to draw attention, not only to themselves, but to the burgeoning wine industry that had begun to pop up throughout West Ventura County. They’ve set up a mentorship program with Pacifica High School, interning their top restaurant cooking students until they graduate, with the opportunity to work in Tierra Sur’s famed kitchen upon receiving their diploma. And that’s just to start.
And it is for this international attention and work in the community that Herzog Wine Cellars and Tierra Sur received the Oxnard Award. Each year, the Chamber of Commerce bestows this prestigious award on an individual, group or business that brings broad recognition to the city while giving back and enriching the lives of residents. Previous recipients include Grammy Award-winning rapper Anderson .Paak, the Dallas Cowboys and Haas Automation.
Additionally, Herzog and Tierra Sur received official recognitions from the U.S. Congress, the California State Senate and Assembly, the Ventura County Board of Supervisors, and the cities of Oxnard and Port Hueneme during a beautiful ceremony held in the historic Heritage Square in downtown Oxnard. , hosted by the West Ventura County Business Alliance. The intimate ceremony spotlighted companies and individuals who have made a difference by doing their part to make the community a better place for everyone and help those most in need. And it is in these stories of these other winners that inspired the Herzogs to create new initiatives and raise community awareness in the near future. The Herzog family has big plans for Oxnard, and working to strengthen the community that has so generously supported them plays an important role in those plans. In the immediate term, to say thank you and show their appreciation for the community, locals are invited to stop by for $1 wine tasting flights in the Herzog Tasting Room. The future of the Herzog family and the town of Oxnard is intertwined, and it’s an exciting prospect.
ABOUT HERZOG WINE CELLARS
California-based Herzog Wine Cellars is a division of Royal Wine Corporation, a family-owned business and one of the largest producers of kosher wines in North America. Specializing in sustainable viticulture, Herzog offers more than 25 varietals in its award-winning wines, including brands like Baron Herzog and Jeunesse. The craftsmanship of Herzog wines is traced to a 150-year legacy of winemaking, passed down nine generations from Czechoslovakia to the United States and now led by Winemaking Operations Manager David Galzignato.
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Herzog Wine Tasting Room
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The Oxnard Trophy
“Great wine starts in the vineyard. It starts with great grapes,” said Denise Matthews, co-owner of Philosophy Wines.
Especially if it’s Maryland grapes.
The Big Cork floor in Thurmont is where it all begins for Kimberly Johnson and her partner Matthews.
“Maryland wine is agriculture, so working with wineries, Maryland farmers, from the east coast to Montgomery County,” Matthews said.
“We have a wish list, but time dictates which grapes will be good enough for us to make wine,” Johnson said.
2018 marked the birth of Philosophy Wines, two 16-year-old friends decided to roll up their sleeves and get dirty.
“We crush, we sort, Lord have mercy if someone wants to help us sort the grapes, we need help. The treadmill goes fast and you pick up the grapes, everything so it’s a product we’re on. have had our hand from the very beginning,” Johnson said.
This is where the work is done and the wine is made at the Wine Collective in Hampden. They use the space with other small businesses.
“It’s millions of dollars worth of equipment. It was the perfect scenario for us and we’ve enjoyed every minute of being part of the co-op. We can come here and make our own wine and then bottle and sell our own wine,” Matthews said.
Between Johnson’s knowledge of the industry and Matthews’ background in business and service as a sommelier, they ventured into uncharted territory, two black women opening their own winery.
It is an industry where there is a small representation of women and people of color.
“Kimberly and I are very social, we’re definitely blessed but we’re people, people and so we don’t allow anything to get in our way,” Matthews said.
Friendships Johnson trained volunteering at the Old Westminster Winery has helped them get to where they are today, even in 2020.
“During the pandemic they had farmers markets on Sundays and so they allowed us to come into their cellar and sell our wine, like who’s doing that. Who’s going to have you in their space, but they did,” Matthews said.
Now four years in business, five wines later, including 3 award-winning ones, they take pride in the product they produce and put on store shelves.
“We make a great wine. It’s not a black wine. It’s not a black woman’s wine. It’s a great wine, we have loyal customers, they buy because the product is good”, Matthews said.
For more information on Philosophy Winery, click here.
]]>Famous Texas Jewelry Star Kendra ScottThe ability to juggle a work-life balance is truly impressive. The founder of her eponymous billion-dollar brand is a newlywed, a returning guest shark for the next season of shark tank, and she is about to file her first memoirs, Born to Shine: Do Good, Find Your Joy, and Build a Life You Love.
Between a dizzying schedule of brand management, philanthropic endeavors, a multi-state book tour, shark tank duties and nurturing a new blended family of eight, we wonder when the Austin-based entrepreneur will have time to breathe.
Apparently, queso, margaritas and finding joy in the little things keep the entrepreneur going. Scott also credits her marriage to Thomas Evans (her wedding ring is the only piece of jewelry she never takes off) and the relationship with her family, including three sons – Kade, Beck and Gray – as the foundations of her success.
And while her jewelry has been a go-to accessory for more than two decades, her first foray into the literary world was one of vulnerability and determination.
After kicking off his book tour in Houston earlier this week, Scott will be at the company’s South Congress Flagship in Austin this Saturday, Sept. 17, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Tickets for the event are still available on Eventbriteand each ticket includes a copy of the book, an encounter with Kendra, an exclusive tote bag, and more.
Ahead of the Austin event, Scott sat down with CultureMap in Houston to get an exclusive on his next chapter.
CultureMap: How long did it take you to write Born to shine?
Kendra Scott: It took a little over two years from the time I decided to write the book, but in reality I’ve been writing this book for years. I never realized that my journal notes would one day turn into a book. It’s been a long process, but after 20 years of our business, it was honestly the perfect time to write this book.
CM: How did you juggle writing, running the business, and being a working mom?
KS: You know, it’s always a challenge. If someone tells you it’s easy and they get it, I think they’re lying. I wrote this during the pandemic so I was working from home with the support system of my loved ones with me. All our meetings were virtual, so it allowed me to have time to reflect.
I had also just stepped down as CEO and could just focus on being president, designer, and founder. I was able to focus more on our philanthropic efforts, such as our school at the University of Texas (Women’s Entrepreneurial Leadership Institute), and concentrate on writing this book. It’s something I’ve always wanted to do.
CM: How do you relate to yourself personally in the book?
KS: I become very vulnerable in the book and I feel there is power in vulnerability. I hope being vulnerable allows other women or people to share their failures, successes, ups and downs and be authentic.
I also hope that the stories of my childhood, my marriage, my divorce, starting a business and failing a business – all of these things are part of what makes me who I am. In the book, I talk about the power of gemstones. Gems all have veins that are considered imperfections, but that’s really what makes them beautiful.
CM: Is there anything you wrote but then changed your mind?
KS: I pulled out the whole first chapter, and I wasn’t going to put it in there. My editor, who is also my editor, told me the chapter was great and she thought it should be the first chapter.
It made me realize that I had to be honest because the book starts out in a tough place but then takes readers on an amazing adventure.
CM: Can fans expect more books in the future?
KS: You know, I thought about it. Now that this book is out in the world, I don’t think it will be the last. It’s a different way of being creative, and I think I have other stories to tell.
I would like to make a children’s book one day. My eldest son was one year old when I started this business; now he’s 20, so he grew up with the business. Now I have a nine-year-old, and I’ve always read to him. I really hope that children’s books will be part of my future.
KS: Why did you decide to start your reading tour in Houston?
CM: Houston is part of who I am. That’s where I became a Texan. I moved here from Wisconsin when I was 16 and graduated from Klein High School. Moving at 16 and as a junior can be tough, but I was adopted to Klein – the community was so welcoming.
Houston made me the woman I am today. It made me realize that there is more to the world than the small town in Wisconsin where I grew up. Houston is such a dynamic city, full of culture and diversity – I felt like it was really important for me to start here because it was my first start in Texas.
CM: You come back to shark tank for Season 14. How was the experience this time around?
KS: I love to be on shark tank. I will fly to Los Angeles for the first with all the other guest sharks on September 23, and that’s exciting because there’s never been a live premiere.
Nothing inspires me more than other entrepreneurs. There are long shooting days, but they pass quickly because it motivates me to meet other entrepreneurs. Many of these people had ideas before the pandemic, and the downtime during the pandemic gave them the opportunity to put their ideas into action. I can witness it a bit in the tank – it’s so much fun.
CM: There’s a lot going on, but is there anything else fans can look forward to before the end of the year?
KS: We just launched engagement rings and a whole bridal collection which is so exciting. We’re expanding into other fine jewelry categories, including diamonds and gold, and adding more customization options than ever before.
Scott Brothers, the line I created with my boys during the pandemic, is also expanding. It’s so much fun that our male customers who were here to buy for the women in their lives can now buy something for themselves. We just expanded to watches as well, so there’s a lot going on.
If you think about it, it took Ralph Lauren 25 years to expand into other categories. Our company has been around for 20 years, so I really love that Kendra Scott’s next phase is so fun and exciting. From a philanthropic perspective, we have given more than $50 million since 2010 to charities for women and children. We are, in many ways, a philanthropic organization within a brand. This is how we measure success, so I look forward to announcing our charitable efforts in the years to come.
We have a solid base and know what we stand for and stand for – I feel like the best is yet to come.
]]>Have you been following the surge in beef prices? The current surge began with shortages following temporary closures of processing plants at the start of the pandemic. Then came the successive jolts of rising fuel and feed grain prices, impacted by the Russian war in Ukraine. Now, a severe drought in the western United States has shrunk pastures and prompted ranchers to reduce their herds and cut supply by up to 20%.
I imagine the more cautious restaurateurs, faced with wholesale price hikes of up to 40% for beef over pre-pandemic costs, are probably not saying, “Let’s open a steakhouse!”
But received ideas have rarely guided chef Marc Vetri. He and his partner Jeff Benjamin had an irresistible real estate opportunity for their first Mainline project, and they delivered the bistecca luxury of an Italian grill at Fiore Rosso in Bryn Mawr.
Likewise, the ambitious team behind Bardea Food & Drink in Wilmington was already “too advanced to go back” on building Bardea Steak, says Scott Stein, whose partner, chef Antimo DiMeo, had dug deep into beef research and advanced techniques. to intensify the flavors. Their sprawling “meat kingdom” features no less than five different breeds of steer, plus elk, ostrich and kangaroo dishes that frequently arrive with a pyrotechnic fanfare – billowing smoke, tubes of bubbling lychee cream – which ensure a drama at the table.
Unsurprisingly, the price tags at both restaurants might make you gasp — reaching $168 for the 40 oz. porter for four at Fiore Rosso, and more than that for some of the chops on display in dry-aged cases at Bardea Steak. The emphasis on large-format cuts, however, is meant to encourage sharing, ultimately serving smaller portions of better meat per person than the individual steaks most American diners are accustomed to. Check the averages in both cases, ultimately between $110 and $120 per person.
It’s all part of their effort to redefine the modern steakhouse experience, along with the creative use of less expensive cuts (like zabuton or ribs) and larger menus to provide more balanced meals with vegetables. seasonal and options that hold more intrigue than the typical. quarter salad and baked potato. Both locations were filled with enthusiastic audiences. But stylistically, these two restaurants — one a study in polished minimalism, the other an irrepressible exercise in experimentation and showmanship — couldn’t be more different.
The element of surprise is the understated simplicity of Fiore Rosso. There’s not even a sign outside its front door at the back of its mall’s parking lot, where the old Tredici has been transformed into a 130-seat open space with high ceilings ( and predictable noise). It could be mistaken for a banquet hall if not for the Picasso and the Miro on loan from Vetri’s partners hanging on the walls.
You’ll know it’s a Vetri restaurant immediately from the museum-quality Berkel slicer on a pedestal near the open kitchen where longtime Osteria veteran Chef Jesse Grossman spins the wheel to shear aged prosciutto and the mortadella to be draped with creamy ricotta on a fresh focaccia. Grossman, also a Vernick household alumnus, can also be seen drizzling dry-aged rendered beef fat with a bundled herb brush over roasted steaks on the oak and charcoal grill of six feet long, which embraces almost every other item on the menu.
The main event, of course, is four cuts of steak which, with just salt and high heat, produced consistently excellent results, from the mineral complexity of dry-aged Double R Ranch ribeye ($150, 32 oz. ) to Creekstone Fiorentina bistecca, whose T-bone adds more flavor to its side of tenderloin than most tenderloins could ever dream of. The Snake River Wagyu Rib Cap is smaller than most, at just 8 oz. for $85. But it packs a richness so intense you don’t need much of it, and I prefer its firmer bite to so many other fat free Wagyu cuts.
Where Fiore Rosso stands out the most is in the rest of the menu, canned prawns cooked separately, squid and mussels topped with lemon oil, almond butter and fried puff pastry , with artichokes stuffed with stracciatella and marrow-glazed corn. The seemingly simple beef tartare, with the subtle accent of firm heart meat in the mix and an umami boost of colaturra, was also outstanding.
The handful of pasta was unremarkable, given the Vetri pedigree, although the seafood mousse-stuffed paccheri offered a clever reference to the common steakhouse lobster bisque, served here as a sauce instead of soup. I would have loved the bolognese sauce with beef if the kitchen had been more generous with the noodles. My biggest disappointment was the pastrami and spice grilled sweetbreads, a specialty I have coveted in Argentinian steakhouses which here were chewy and burnt.
A sip of my stiff Tuscan Manhattan, or the brawny Valle Reale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the all-Italian wine list (who needs Cali cabs?), and I was ready to move on to the many other virtues of this menu – a plump take on veal Milanese with tonnato sauce; a vibrant tuna crudo with green tomato acqua pazza. And especially the desserts of pastry chef Michal Shelkowitz. His caramel budino is so good he cheats. But I was delighted with the three-layered spumoni made with fresh strawberries, pistachios and chocolate gelati. Wrapped in a toasted strip of fluted meringue, it was festive, classic and fresh all at the same time. When updating a genre as stuck in convention as the steakhouse, this is a promising place to start.
Fiore Rosso, 915 Lancaster Ave, Bryn Mawr, 484-380-2059; fiorerossophl.com
I was so overwhelmed after my first meal that I almost didn’t go back to Bardea Steak. I had broken my own rule of not visiting a new restaurant until it was a month old – and I literally paid the price.
The restaurant’s marquee splurge, a dry-aged bistecca Fiorentina cut from the Texan descendants of the legendary Tuscan Chianina cattle, is priced by the ounce since the kitchen cuts its chops to order and sizes vary. “It’s usually around $200 and enough for four,” our server said, taking pity on my obvious struggle to multiply $6 an ounce in my head. (Why should customers do this, anyway?) But when the bill came I gulped in horror that I had been given for a in addition big 50 ounces without warning for…$300!?
I would have appreciated a double check from our otherwise excellent server before committing to this piece of XL cow – a protocol oversight that Stein says he has since corrected. But I would have appreciated it even more if the ever-experimental DiMeo had finished its R&D before the opening. His fermentation obsession with the potent Japanese koji rice mold destroyed our steak with an overly intense marinade that made it incredibly salty and tender to the point that the porter’s already supple tenderloin side had softened at the texture of the beef paste.
The marinade has since been adjusted, DiMeo says, to about a sixth of the time used on mine. But come on, boss! You cannot test at this level. Just because you can play with koji doesn’t mean you should always. (A koji-aged rib eye at Umami Steak and Sushi off Washington Square was even worse in saltiness and texture, making me now a founding member of the #NeverKojiSteak club).
Fortunately, not all of these meats are fermented in koji. You can order a bone-in Piedmontese rib-eye, an Aberdeen Angus strip that descends from the original Scottish breed, an Australian Wagyu fat-grilled over embers with ssamjang harissa, or the deeply flavorful grilled Chianina flanken. Korean style. The most fascinating reflection of DiMeo’s beef explorations is the “Butcher’s Feast” featuring less common cuts from five different breeds, including a buttery Wagyu flat iron, a tender Piedmontese zabuton and my two favorites, a Holstein picanha and the deeply complex Vaca Vieja, a Spanish breed matured years beyond the time most cattle are slaughtered.
I can’t be blamed for being thrilled to discover the latest project from one of our most creative and artistic chefs. And a much improved visit several weeks later would validate my expectations of Bardea Steak potentially becoming this region’s ultimate meat palace. The space designed by Stokes Architecture + Design is stunning, with white brick walls on walnut-colored floors and plush leather banquettes set under the gaze of a sculpted Chianina cow. The wine list is deep and premium. The cocktails are complex and inventive yet balanced – and sometimes presented with brilliance, like the sparkler that blazed atop my fine lines, offering a glimpse of the dazzle to come.
DiMeo’s creativity is showcased in its vibrant and inventive uses for the whole cow: in oxtail barbacoa nestled in smoky plantain tamales; in the veal flank tartare drizzled with clarified cacciatore broth; in a raw teres major shaved into meaty thread noodles dressed in a beef garum vinaigrette, pistachio butter and trout roe served under a smoke dome. Even the croissants here are made with a special Guernsey butter.
But the menu is also too extensive — a repertoire of 50 pieces, each meticulously composed, not even counting the separate steak menu. Some are spectacular, like the 96-layer rolled bread cube, the goat birria, or the boar and croissant riff on a mini Cuban sandwich. By the time I started tasting the elk skewers, whole piccata chick, turducken croquettes, egg-filled khachapuri, and sweet Danish-style m’hanncha pastry, it was clear that this menu had gone off the rails and needed an editor.
If DiMeo restricts its concept and refrains from adding half a dozen frills to each plate, the possibilities of this innovative restaurant are limitless. At least he can focus on perfecting his new approaches to prized chops before putting them on the menu. After a $300 fake steak, there aren’t many diners who would give this potentially exciting kingdom of meat the second chance it deserves.
Bardea Steak, 608 N. Market St., 302-550-9600; bardeeastak.com
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So much travel is by plane that it can be easy to overlook another fabulous way to take in the scenery: trains!
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Trains can offer a comfortable experience like no other, with ornate cabins, fancy dining cars, 24-hour concierge service and again – incredible scenery, anywhere in the world. Here we’ve listed 11 of the most luxurious train journeys, according to Travel + Leisure, that you can dream of taking… at the right price.
The Presidential Train, Portugal
Portugal is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets when it comes to beautiful scenery and culinary grandeur. The Presidential train takes its passengers to the heart of this incredible gastronomic scene, in the Douro Valley.
On this train ride, chefs come aboard every day to prepare incredible dishes and pair them with local wines. Passengers have private cabins to admire the beautiful landscape of the valley. Tickets start at $560 per person for this luxury dining experience.
Belmond Andean Explorer, Peru
The Belmond Andean Explorer begins its journey in the capital of Cusco and meanders along the Andean plains, to Lake Titicaca. Not only is it one of the most luxurious train rides – with brightly colored and lush Peruvian fabrics decorating your cabins and tasty cuisine – but the train claims to have one of the highest rides in the world, by due to the altitude of 12,507 feet.
Individual passenger tickets start at around $1,915 per person.
Seven Stars cruise train, Japan
This luxurious Japanese train experience invests as much in beauty as it does in passenger comfort. For one thing, it’s one of the first trains to include luxury sleeping compartments. The train is visually stunning, inside and out. According to its website, its exterior has been compared to antique lacquer, and its interiors include polished wood accents and gold embellishments.
You can choose from multi-day tours around the island of Kyushu, offering views of the mountains and the ocean. However, only 28 passengers can travel at a time, which means you have to enter a lottery to participate. It’s not cheap either. Individual tickets start at around $2,300 per ticket (330,000 yen) but can go up to double that depending on your suite.
The Ghan, Australia
When you think of Australia, you might think of the vast, warm outback and jeep expeditions in khaki. However, the Ghan Expedition train offers passengers a chance to tour Australia in luxury on a journey that first went into service in 1924 but has been updated with modern comforts and conveniences.
You’ll spend four days traveling from Darwin to Adelaide with stops at such stunning locations as the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station and the Nitmiluk Gorge, where you can learn about its rich Aboriginal history. You can also sample Australian food and wine, all for around $2,500 per person.
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Rovos Rail, South Africa
This incredible train journey passes through multiple landscapes in South Africa, from the Highveld grasslands to the Great Karoo desert, as well as stunning mountain ranges and the Cape Winelands. You’ll end your three-day trip in Cape Town, described as “South Africa’s Mother City.”
You’ll also stop at historic Matjiesfontein, an authentically preserved Victorian village, and Kimberley, where you’ll see the Diamond Mine Museum and the world’s largest man-made excavation, the Big Hole. Passengers will pay approximately $3,095 per passenger for the Royal Car.
Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, Europe
Imagine yourself in an Agatha Christie novel as you travel aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a train positively dripping with old-world Art Deco luxury. The train runs from London to Venice, stopping in Paris and Verona along the way. The food you eat is collected throughout your journey in places like Brittany and Provence. Also feel free to dress in your finery, which is more than encouraged, and sip champagne in the bar car.
This luxurious adventure starts at around $3,750 per ticket.
The Canadian, Canada
Travel through the Great White North while staying warm in your train cabin. The Canadian offers services across the country, from Toronto to Vancouver. If you never get off the train, it will take you four consecutive days to complete the journey.
Along the way, passengers will see waterfalls, charming little towns and the great Rocky Mountains. Take the train in winter for the best views of snow-capped peaks and endless fields of white powder. This trip starts at around $6,190 per passenger.
Eastern & Oriental Express, Asia
The Eastern & Oriental Express aims to bring the best of Asian luxury to its passengers, and has done so since 1993. Its website describes the interiors as decorated in “beautiful green and gold carriages concealing beautiful cherry woodwork, Thai silks and Malaysian embroidery”.
The train will also take you through “lush jungle, ancient temples, and quaint villages” as you pass through cities such as Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, and Singapore. You’ll also need to dress appropriately – dinner parties require formal attire. For all this luxury, you only need to shell out around $7,575 per person if you want to stay in the Presidential Suite.
Maharajas Express, India
If you want to take your luxury train experience up a notch, consider Maharajas’ Express train, an eight-day “Heritage of India” tour that takes you through some of the major cities like Mumbai, Udaipur, Jodhpur , Jaipur, Agra and Delhi. Not only do you get the absolute beauty and comfort of the train itself, decorated with Indian fabrics and gleaming wood, but also a private butler.
Tickets for it start around $8,950 per passenger.
Belmond Royal Scotsman, Scotland
For the Outlander obsessive or anyone who’s always wanted to see the majesty of Scotland up close – from its mysterious lochs to its majestic stone castles and lush countryside – the Royal Scotsman train ride will blow your mind. You will be installed in “cars dressed in mahogany [that] marry Edwardian elegance with the comforts of a country house,” its website states.
Even better, the Royal Scotsman is one of the few luxury trains to have an onboard spa. Enjoy a spa service, such as a massage or manicure, while admiring the scenery. Of course, you’ll want to save – their Grand Western Scenic Wonders Tour is around $12,500 per person!
Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express, Russia
If you take the Russian Trans-Siberian Express, you will be riding a train that is over 100 years old. All of this history adds up to an unforgettable experience.
The journey takes you from Moscow all the way to Vladivostok, and you can do more than just sit in your luxury compartment. You can take Russian lessons, enjoy live piano music and help yourself to fine cocktails in the bar that doesn’t close.
This 15-day trip is the most expensive on our list. It starts at $19,895 per person for ‘Silver Class’ and can go up to $88,000 for ‘Royal Suite’ depending on travel dates.
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